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Showing posts with label nikon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nikon. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

VELLO Snap-On LCD Screen Protector





This is a quick review of the VELLO Snap-On LCD Protector that I recently purchased for my D800.


The LCD protector that comes with my D800 is functional but has its flaws. It scratches rather easily, which of course is better than scratching the actual LCD that it protects. When it scratches though, if its not a gouge in the plastic, then it develops a haze that makes viewing your LCD more like looking through a plastic milk carton. The LCD protector that comes with my camera covers the LCD but does not prevent dust from getting behind it. Dust eventually gets behind the cover and generally becomes an annoyance after a while and thus forces me to remove it and clean it. Sometimes, grains of sand make their way behind the cover and this is a real problem because sand can definitely scratch my LCD. Something I absolutely don't want!


Looking at my camera and the LCD cover it came with, you can see its time to clean it if not actually replace it. There's a bunch of dust behind it and it looks like maybe a few grains of sand are back there as well. Not good! There are a few scratches and some haze developing, but nothing to get too worked up about.







The packaging for the VELLO Snap-On LCD Screen Protector is attractive. The instructions were simple and clear. Simple remove your old screen protector, clean the LCD if necessary, remove the plastic protector film on the new protector, and then simply snap into place.


It also came with a LCD protector for the top LCD panel. The instructions mentioned an eyepiece protector but this unit didn't come with one.

The back of the main LCD protector has a felt lining around the edges and this I suppose should help keep dust and other unwanted debris from getting behind it. Time will tell.


The small LCD protector had a small amount of adhesive it looked like around the edges to hold it in place. I simply cleaned off the LCD on the camera and then dropped the new protector in place. I applied a small amount of pressure to make sure it was secured and it seems to be firmly in place.


Once installed, the new covers looks great. Compared to the old LCD protector, the new VELLO has a much cleaner look to it. Its black instead of a translucent plastic and blends in well with the camera body to look like you don't even have a protector over the LCD. Images on the back of my camera are clear and vibrant. Its as if there isn't even a cover over the LCD. Time will tell how well this holds up and prevents dust and debris from getting behind the cover. I'll report back after some time on how it holds up.







The small LCD on the top of the camera blends in so well you don't even notice there is a protector over it. Again, the LCD is clear and just as easy to read as if there wasn't a cover over it.






The VELLO sells for $24.95 while the replacement Nikon cover is $16.95. For a few dollars more I believe this is really the better alternative to protecting your screen. Time will tell of course and I'll report back later with what I find after some real use of it.

Friday, June 1, 2012

Experiment with Custom White Balance


I often experiment with custom white balance settings in my camera when photographing landscapes as a way of helping me refine my images. I use it to both explore colors creatively and to help with determining if a scene is worth investing my time to photograph. Many times, subtle and not so subtle changes to the camera's white balance setting yields new ideas and more interest in what i'm photographing. Being fully engaged with what you are photographing is probably the most important thing. If you are not engaged, your viewers won't be engaged, and that will show in your image. Using the custom white balance settings in your camera is a great way to explore and expand your photography.

Since I shoot digitally, changing the white balance of an image before I take it is so simple. I don't have to carry and fumble with multiple color filters as film shooters do. With just a few menu and button presses, I can go from a feeling of calm and cool to warm, hot, and vibrant all in the same scene. I thought of using actual color filters to produce the same results but I found an issue in post production where it can be difficult if not impossible to adjust colors to my liking. Since I shoot RAW images and use Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) to help process my images, I can change the white balance settings of the photograph after the fact just as easily as I can with my camera before I captured the image. In fact, ACR really stretches the limits and allows me to go into territory that my camera simply won't allow me to go to with white balance.

Maybe now you are sold on the idea of how beneficial custom white balance settings can be, now I'll explore just how I use them.

On the left is an image taken in Corson's Inlet near Ocean City, NJ one evening, just after sunset, when high tide was receding in the tidal marsh. There's lots of water and lots of sky so the tones and colors are very similar throughout the entire image. This image is shown with the white balance in my camera set to Daylight, which is about 5200K. ACR displays this as 5000K and -8 Magenta.

By the way, I took this with a Nikon D700 and while i'm not familiar with every other camera brand with regards to custom white balance settings, the numbers won't always match up with mine but through experiment and trial and error, you can achieve the same effects here.

In the image above, what words would you use to describe the colors and tones?
Cool? Subtle? Smooth? Relaxing? Soft? Blue?

Those are the types of colors and moods you get after sunset because all we have now is reflected light and no more direct light from the sun. Soft and blue are how I would describe it. As twilight settles in, everything becomes more soft, subtle, and blue until there is no more light left and all we have is darkness. At the time of searching for this image and taking the photograph, I was not feeling soft and subtle and blue. I was feeling vibrant and thrilled standing in a wonderful water world that seemed out-of-this world! A beautiful burst of color was directly above me in the clouds and the reflected light in the water was begging to be captured. The question was at the time, how could I better capture that thrilling and vibrant feeling in an image?

A custom white balance setting was how!

This time I changed the white balance to a custom color temperature of 7140K and then used the fine-tune grid option to introduce more Amber and Magenta. Those settings are A6 and M6. In ACR this image shows as 7450K and +78 Magenta.

The Amber and Blue axis of the fine-tune grid in my Nikon D700 doesn't apply another type of filter. It simply shifts the actual color temperature up or down. This is evident because the custom white balance in the camera was set to 7140K, A6, M6. Fine-tuning the white balance for Amber 6 and Magenta 6 now indicates a color temperature of 9090K. However, in ACR the corrected color temperature is 7450K and +78 Magenta.






What words would you use now to describe the colors and tones in this image?
Dreamy? Vibrant? Unworldly? Exciting? Purply?


This new image is much closer to what I was feeling when I was taking the image and what I wanted to convey. By deliberately introducing a color cast by fine-tuning the white balance in the camera, I am able to change the feeling of the image and more closely deliver what I wanted in the image.

Below is the final image after post-processing. Just a subtle shift in color temperature again and this time to enhance the blues and purples more. In ACR the color temperature is 6200K and +80 Magenta. The shift to a cooler temperature is what is responsible for bringing out the blues and purples more.



























Now the one question you may be asking right now that I don't have an exact answer for is, how do I know what color temperature I should use?

You have to experiment. You have to try both when you are taking the photo and then when you are post-processing the photo to see the endless possibilities that are out there. Through trial and error and experimentation are how I usually arrive at a particular setting. Who knows, maybe sometimes when you are in the field taking photographs you later find something more pleasing in post-processing that differs from what you originally envisioned and captured. With the freedom of shooting RAW and software such as Adobe Camera Raw, you are not ever limited or penalized by choices you made when you took the photograph.

There is of course one rule of thumb, so-to-speak, that I can offer that you can use to help with your decision making. Lower temperatures are considered cooler and thus will often yield images with a blue-ish cast. Higher temperatures are considered warmer and will yield images with a golden or yellowish cast. Where things get interesting is when you fine-tune the white balance and you apply a green or magenta cast.

I often apply more magenta when I experiment with white balance. It does a great job of enhancing both red and pink tones and purple tones, depending on what the color temperature is. With cooler temperatures (e.g. 4500K) and a magenta cast, you'll often see deep purple tones. With warmer temperatures (e.g. 6500K) and a magenta cast, you'll often see pinkish tones. I don't often use the green filter in situations such as the one depicted here. However, I can definitely see a benefit with scenes deep within a forest or canopy of lush greens where using the green filter could work.

Results will greatly vary depending on your subject and the lighting of course. These techniques probably won't translate well to portraiture work! Here are a couple of more examples.




These three images were taken a little while after sunrise with some beautiful alto-cumulus clouds in the sky creating a sort of sun pillar effect.

The first image on the left demonstrates what Auto White Balance looks like. ACR reports this as 4000K. Here you can say everything is very blue and cool. The colors in the sky and the clouds were much more brilliant to my eye than this. Its fair to say that this isn't an accurate representation of how that morning looked and felt.

The second image demonstrates a Daylight White Balance setting. ACR reports this as 5500K and +10 Magenta. While there is a bit more color than the first image, it still lacked the punch and vibrancy that I actually saw and felt that morning. Getting there, but not quite all the way there.

The third and final image in this example is the custom White Balance setting I used to take the photograph. This was 5000K, A6, M6 and ACR reports this as 5850K and +76 Magenta. Here now we can see the colors go wild and really draw you into how magnificent that morning really was. Alto-cumulus clouds are some of the finest clouds to lay eyes on and when you couple that with a rising or setting sun, get ready for a wild ride with mother nature nearing her best! Since the colors were so vivid already, I didn't have to raise the color temperature beyond 5000K to really get the pinks and the purples to come alive when applying the Magenta filter.



These two images were taken in the twilight before sunrise. There was a good bit of low clouds on the horizon where the sun would rise and this helped block some of the early light and it seemed to extend twilight just a little bit longer for me.

The first image of two was taken at Daylight White Balance. ACR reports this as 5000K and -6 Magenta (or +6 Green). To me, this again was not an accurate representation of what I was seeing. Deep twilight is very cool and blue and the colors here make me think more of a sea foam green.

The second image is what I took with a custom White Balance. ACR reports this as 4150K and +33 Magenta. By lowering the color temperature and adding a magenta filter I was able to extract a much cooler and softer glow from the scene than previously. Here we see deeper blues and purples with a lower color temperature and some magenta added.

In conclusion...


Don't be afraid and experiment with custom white balance settings both when you are taking photos and afterwards during post-procesing. Don't be afraid to push the limits sometimes and try extreme color temperatures such as 2500K or 10000K or really push the sliders with magenta and green. There are tons of creative possibilities waiting out there and it never hurts to experiment. So give it a try and have fun with it next time you are out capturing the landscapes!



Wednesday, January 11, 2012

SMDV RFN-4s Wireless Shutter Release for Nikon

The SMDV RFN-4s Wireless Shutter Release for Nikon that I ordered just arrived in the mail today. I've been using the Nikon MC-30 wired shutter release on my D700 until now. The MC-30 does the job but having the remote attached to my camera makes it cumbersome to take out and put back into my bag. I primarily store my camera gear in a Kata Bug-255UL backpack. Space is tight with all my gear so it was a real pain to keep the remote cable attached. I couldn't essentially so having to attach and detach all the time got to be a real drag especially when I knew there had to be a wireless solution out there that would be compact and perform well.




Well my prayers were answered and I stumbled upon the SMDV wireless shutter release on Amazon and decided to give it a try!




The RFN-4s is made by SMDV. A company that I've never heard of but they are a South Korean company so anything made by my peeps has to be good, right? :)




The unit comes in an attract case, worthy to be put on display on the shelves and glass display cases of any good camera store. What you get is one transmitter, one receiver, a small carrying case, a small wrist-like strap for the transmitter, a battery for the transmitter, and of course, instructions. The transmitter is small and fits in your hand easily and resembles a small clicker for presentations. The receiver has a small antenna and overall looks like a miniature walkie-talkie. The transmitter takes a single AAA battery that is included. The receiver is powered by the camera.




I read through the instructions quickly and setting the unit up was simply only a matter of installing the battery in the transmitter, attaching the receiver to the camera, and voilĂ , take a picture! The receiver screws into the front remote port of my D700 just like the MC-30 remote did. It fit in very securely, no problems with the threads. The little red LED on the receiver began blinking immediately, letting me know that its powered up. Per the instructions, it will auto-power off after 2 hours of inactivity. You can always just turn it off manually by depressing the button on the front of the transmitter for 1 second.




The transmitter operates over the standard WiFi/microwave oven/cordless telephone frequency range of 2.4Ghz. Because of this, it has 16 different selectable channels you can set the transmitter and receiver to in case you get interference from other devices that prevent the unit from working properly. The unit came already set to channel 16 and I left it at that.




From the photos below, you can see the transmitter attached to my camera and its fairly unobtrusive and perhaps even makes the D700 a fair bit more "professional" looking (LOL). 





The unit worked right out of the box without a hitch. Depressing the remote button half-way is just like your shutter release button on the camera. It will auto-focus and meter for you. The front of the receiver actually has another LED that lights up to let you know it is auto-focusing. Next, you just press the release button on the transmitter and your camera instantly takes a photo. A third LED on the receiver lets you know when the shutter is released.




If you put your camera in BULB mode, the transmitter will work as well. In this mode, just depress the remote button until a blue LED on the transmitter lights up. This means the shutter is now open. Press the remote button again and the shutter will close. You don't have to hold the remote button down to keep the shutter open. Nice little function if you ask me.




SMDV claims the transmitter will work up to 100m. That's as long as a football field to us Americans. That's pretty far. I wasn't about to test the ultimate limits of the transmitter myself but I figure I see how it does indoors in my house. Well I can tell you that from 3 floors away, the camera on the 3rd floor, me on the ground floor, the transmitter triggered the shutter flawlessly. Wow, that's more range than I'll ever need. 




So far this little unit is racking up a lot of positive points for me. Its well designed. Compact. Unobtrusive. And works. What's the last thing? It fits in my backpack without having to remove it!




Next test is the long-term test out in the field. I'll carry a spare battery and my old MC-30 as backup just in case. I'll report back after some time of using this to let you know the final verdict but so far this little guy gets 5 stars from me.




You can pick on up on Amazon. They make these for both Canon and Nikon. Just check the compatibility list before you purchase one to make sure it works with your camera. the RFN-4s is said to work with the Nikon D700, D300, D300s, D200, D100 (Battery Grip Required), D3, D3S, D3X, D2, D2Xs, D2X, D2H, D1H, and D1.